Sunday, September 30, 2007

the jerseyites-nyt sunday

http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2007/09/28/fashion/20070930STREET_index.html?partner=permalink&exprod=permalink

Via Via Via

I read this at one of my favorite fashion-manufcaturing-industry-type blogs Fashion Incubator, who was sent it by Esther at TinyPackages.com. The entry itself is at Organic_Clothing.

In part because of its luxurious softness, smooth hand, flowing and gentle drape, and easy price – at least compared with silk and cashmere – and eco friendly cachet, bamboo has gained entry throughout the fashion industry. But it has been the trumpets heralding bamboo as the latest and hottest sustainable eco-fabric that have been the most strident. And some of the hoopla is justified. Growing bamboo is a wonderfully beneficial plant for the planet and most is naturally organic bamboo. The manufacturing processes where bamboo the plant is transformed into bamboo the fabric are where the sustainability and eco-friendly luster of bamboo is tarnished because of the heavy chemicals, some of which are toxic, that are often required. Very, very little bamboo clothing would qualify as sustainable or organic clothes.
Kate O'Connor, Fibers alum, got some ink in that article on bamboo, go MICA! Anyway, thought it was relevant.

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Production Schedule/Timeline


Collective Selection: Fashion as a mechanism of Belonging:




Sept. 28: Intro: Project #2-Collective Selection:
at the table: hammering out a collective line:

--Can the group insight a critical mass via the garment/ a visible segment of society?
--Can the group invent a new style/ a symbol of group membership?
--What would a collective line of clothing look like for this class, this time, this group?
--How can the group exercise the notion of fashion as relational?
--What is the purpose and function of this garment?
Individually:
Group:
--What is the storyline?
--Where/how will it be presented?
--What is the collective Icon? --
--What is an individual Icon?
--What could be individual Icons within the group umbrella?
---Color Palette?
---Style/theme?
--How should we present this line?



Oct. 5: Measuring/Pattern Construction/scour fabric:






Oct 12: Cut and Sew--piecework and dye
Class Icon/Embroidery Machine help with Michelle

Oct 19: Final studio day-

Oct 26: Crit/Presentation
(* 3 to 5 hours of studio work outside class)

NOV 2: Intro Project#3/Set-Up Exhibition

--the timeline could change at any time.

Uniform Research--kc


bluebird uniform-Kelly , Tracy and Uncle Harry, 1977.


graceful/leadership--learning giver.


handmade accents "totem"

scarves and badges. An icon?











Friday, September 28, 2007

Uniform




Personally I want to make a mourner's uniform but I can't.
I agree with the majority idea of a simple uni-sex, uni-shape, uni-non-color
garment.
Looking at Native Americans, they all basically wear the same outfit just modified
from person to person.
I like the idea of a communal group having roles that they have within the community.
Roles like, the leader, the medicine man, the caregiver, the gatherer, the hunter, the warrior,
and so on and so on.
I think we should have a collective garment but give ourselves personal roles we play in this
group we are making by creating personal adornment.


unisexy

simple, drapy knitwear. completely devoid of iconography. unisex jeans or leggings, unitard?
i have a sample of bamboo fabric that is super comfortable, sustainable, and can be draped or used for leggings. its about $10 a yard.








What is a uniform?

Thinking of uniforms, I think of the Sound of Music, the play clothes for the children made out of the most ugliest of curtains, differenciating in style and silouette - they still have a unifying theme. The concept of family was raised in class, or cult. Unified gang. Then we thought of the 1979 film the Warriors. Also a slight differnce in the ways that these outfits were put together - you get a sense of individuality but still overall unity.





what will we come up with?

Uniform - Smock

What better garment than the non-bifurcated simple smock? The t-shirt, it should also be noted, is a "uniform", albeit somewhat casual, of groups of people, workers.

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

we just want to be liked





From Neal Leach,Camouflage, (Cambridge, Massachusetts:MIT Press, 2006),pp.1-32,238-249.

"he just wants to be liked" p.2

"...using the tactic of apparent conformity as a means of concealing his true sense of identity, supressing his true emotions, as a means of preserving them"

--the notion of Collective Behavior and cultures of conformity (religious communities, military groupings, sports teams, corporate identities.)

" he just wants to be liked"

standing out/blending in
collective behavior

"there is a natural urge in human beings to seek out resemblances and invent correspondences with the world" --Walter Benjamin

allows for an identification with the external world

facilitates the possibility of forging a link between self and other.

A way of empathizing with the world. and it is through empathy that human beings can, if not fully understand the other, at least come ever closer to the other, through the discovery and creation of similarities.

freud: empathy einfuhlung--an emotional tie

http://www.generation-online.org/p/fpcaillois.htm

ttp://maven.english.hawaii.edu/criticalink/lacan/terms/mirror.html

Roger Caillois "Mimicry and Legendary Psychasthenia"

"at a fundamental level, the relationship between an organism and its surroundings"

mimicry as a form of three-dimensional teleplasty--a reproduction in three-dimensional space with solids and voids: sculpture-photography.

wolf in sheeps clothing
decoy strategies


--using the tactic of apparent conformity as a means of concealing his true sense of identity, suppressing his true emotions, as a means of preserving them.

collective behavior

"there is a natural urge in human beings to seek out resemblances and invent correspondences with the world" --Walter Benjamin

"allows for an identification with the external world."

"facilitates the possibility of forging a link between self and other."

"A way of empathizing with the world. and it is through empathy that human beings can, if not fully understand the other, at least come ever closer to the other, through the discovery and creation of similarities."

freud: empathy einfuhlung--an emotional tie

http://www.generation-online.org/p/fpcaillois.htm

ttp://maven.english.hawaii.edu/criticalink/lacan/terms/mirror.html

Roger Caillois "Mimicry and Legendary Psychasthenia"

"at a fundamental level, the relationship between an organism and its surroundings"
mimicry as a form of three-dimensional teleplasty--a reproduction in three-dimensional space with solids and voids: sculpture-photography.

wolf in sheeps clothing
decoy strategies

note: your stance

"Suppose, in the spirit of things nonartistic, that having a stance of some sort was important for making experimental performances. A stance includes not just a feeling tone but also a rough idea of the human and professional values you are dealing with. A stance gives a shape and explanation to an unfamiliar course of action. It may be valuable to bring up this issue here because new art tends to generate new stances, even though while this happens old notions are carried over that are incompatible with the new situation. For instance, an existentialist stance was helpful to action painting because it could explain, and therefore justify, personal isolation and crisis better than the Marxism of the thirties. At present (this was written in the 70's) a formalist stance would be inadequate for performance genre that intentionally blurs categories and mixes with everyday life."

- Alan Kaprow



Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Here is my attempt to over-simplify cyber culture:

Let me tell you, first off, that cyber culture is a very BROAD, difficult-to-describe subject. Contrary to common belief, anime conventions are not my primary influence, nor are they the origin of cyber culture.

Camden
The first time I was ever exposed/aware of this culture, I was barely 16, in the store Cyberdog (Camden): http://www.camdenguide.co.uk/fashion/cyber.htm

Other good stores:
http://www.cryoflesh.com/
http://spacetribe.nu

The first generalization that I made was that they were all 9 feet tall, had numerous facial piercings, mohawks, and glowing eyes. The guy I saw would have had to be around 7 feet tall (10-inch platforms), but he also worked at Cyberdog and must have had more exposure to the merchandise. I was scared/enthralled. :D



Cyber culture can have many subcategories (raver, goth, punk), but those lines are usually very difficult to distinguish, so thank you Wikipedia:
Cyber, also referred to as cyber culture or cyberculture, is the name given to a subculture that has roots in multiple music scenes including the European Dark scene and rave/clubbing scenes. Someone who identifies with the Cyber subculture can be referred to as a "cyber", although the term "cybergoth" is used to refer to what is perceived by some as a goth-influenced end of the subculture, and "cyberkid" to refer to those who attend trance/hard dance clubs.

Cyber fashion resembles a combination of rave and cyberpunk fashion, as well as drawing inspiration from anime and science fiction. Androgyny is common. Some common themes include the use of starkly contrasting colours such as black, white, luminous neon and/or UV-reactive colours and materials, large shoes or boots, various forms of body modification and superfluous goggles (especially aviator-style), typically worn on the forehead rather than on the eyes.

Brightly coloured and often stylised hair is common in the cybergoth community, either dyed and styled real hair or, more commonly, elaborate extensions or wigs either braided or somewhat resembling dreadlocks known as 'falls'. Falls can be made out of synthetic hair, thick plastic ribbon or more exotic materials such as computer cables; as cybergoth fashions typically aim for an artificial or heavily-stylised look, materials that are very obviously not real hair are particularly common. The perceived ubiquity of falls in the cybergoth community has led to the derogatory term yarnhead amongst non-cybergoths.


Japan
Japan, when presented with some fashion, seems to become a window of exaggeration. Here is "gothic/fetish/alternative club DJ," Sisen:




Here is the only good example of cyberkids I saw at ONE convention I went to:

This is the type of imagery I intend to present with my garment:



Other influences:
Club Kids


Fifth Element




Dirty Pair